Christmas Party

PUC, the school I teach at, is a very socially responsible place. Puthy, a Khmer teacher I’ve met here, works in the Scholarship Department that provides a number of scholarships to financially disadvantaged kids in the country. She also plays a big part in the running of an orphanage in Phnom Penh that is sponsored by the university and some of the teaching staff volunteer their time towards. Puthy, thinking I have some sort of social conscience, asked me to come along and visit the orphanage to say hello to the kids. Maybe because it was the Christmas season or the guilt of being away from my family I agreed and went along.

The orphanage is over the river (meaning it is in a rougher part of town) away from the usual haunts of foreigners or visitors to Phnom Penh. There is nothing too flash about this place, a collection of roughly built buildings that pass for a school and home. The place is very dusty and doesn’t look too inviting but the kids seem to be very happy. They range from 3 to about 16 years of age. They learn the basic education stuff as well as English, but the older kids also study vocational courses such as photography and I.T. It was very odd when I arrived to what appeared to be a very disadvantaged place to be met by a group of kids each with their own digital camera. The idea is that hopefully these kids will go on and make a career or get a job in the growing tourism industry in Cambodia by using these practical skills.

The day I visited was like a graduation plus Christmas celebration (though it seems strange that a 95% Buddhist country would hold a Xmas Party). A number of the kids were presented with certificates for completion of their course. An American, Dean, who provides a lot of financial support for the orphanage through his NGO presented certificates and provided for a party for the kids afterwards (candy/lollies that were consumed within .0256 seconds of them being placed down). Below is a picture of Dean and Puthy at the presentation ceremony shortly before they disappeared in the rush for candy.



Shortly after the ceremony I was asked by some of the Khmer teachers if I knew the Christmas Story (the Jesus, Mary and Joseph one, not Santa). Having 12 years of a Catholic education I advised I did indeed. My admission meant that I had volunteered to retell the story for the benefit of the kids via a Khmer translator. Puthy told me that not many foreigners of any type get to the place and the kids are always interested in hearing about other places. I told the Jesus story but could see that the kids (despite the best efforts of the translator) were not really getting a kick out of my telling of The Greatest Story Ever Told. I therefore moved on to what most Cambodians know about Christmas and that is Santa Claus. I don’t blame them, the story about a bloke in a red suit (Khmer Rouge) traveling at night (guerilla night tactics) to climb down the chimney (home invasion) to leave a present (bribery) seems much more relevant to the Cambodians recent life experience. The kids were most interested though in what Australians typically had for dinner as talking about leg ham and fresh prawns seemed to get the biggest ohhhs and ahhhhs.

The kids then put on a display of traditional Khmer dancing for the small group of foreigners in attendance. Khmer dancing has a lot of meaning and is performed to strict rules. My own personal rule is that I fall asleep when it is performed. But these kids put a lot of effort into the performance and looked so happy doing it that I actually enjoyed it. Plus it went for only 20 minutes rather then a usual 5 hour-effort.

After the dancing, a number of gifts were presented to the kids by the visitors and staff from PUC. I wasn’t required to buy anything but I gave to the orphanage a new soccer ball and volleyball (Attention: Nephews and Nieces - Please note the reason I did not send you any presents this year was because in the above gifts were donated in your names. I am sure that you will agree with me that this gift is better then any Xbox 360 or $100 gift voucher).

Presents you will never see

I presented this to the kids in a very formal hand over much like I was handing over the Grand Final trophy, a bit over the top but the kids liked the chance to take photos.

Recreation of handover

I spoke to a number of the older kids who could speak English and they were all very bright, positive kids who really value the opportunity that the oprhange had given them and are hoping for big things in the future. I hope that it is possible for them to do so in what is a difficult country for people without family to support them.

The end.

Chantevy Birthday

Most people have been asking me what having I been doing with my social life, more to the point do I have a girl friend. No girlfirend but i cetainly havent been sitting at home twiddling my thumbs. Not a lot to do in Phnom Penh at night other then drink and drink. One notable night was a birthday party for Chantevy.

(The next paragraph is for the benefit of my sisters and girls I used to work with. Anyone else will find it boring.) When I first came to Cambodia and did my TESOL course, Chantrea was the office girl and general help-with-anything girl. Chantrea (or Trea) is engaged to Steve, An Irish teacher here. Trea's sister, Annie, also goes out with Ryan an American teacher who did the same TESOL course as me here (who also lives in the flat under me). Annie works at a resturant/bar called Howies (no it's not that sort of place). A number of her friends/cousins called Chanthea, Chantevy, Chanritha and Chankunty (and for some reason) Annette also work at Howies. None of whom are my girlfirend (Are we clear?)

Anyway......

Chantevy (or Tevy) had a birthday on the lakeside at a Khmer pontoon resturant. These are local places that are set on pontoons by the side of lake where you can eat and drink. Sounds nice but it is a insect haven and I dont know who ate more; the insects or me. To make up for it they also sell Khmer wine. It takes like cough medicene and is brewed for hours in empty bear stubbies. The following photos are the product of too many wines and mozzie bites.


Jake (another Yank teacher), Steve, Tevy and Trea


Tia and Annie (girlfriend of Ryan)

Jake and Tevy (Birthday Girl)

Howie girls (V for Victory)

Ryan (boyfriend of Annie) and yours truley

Trea and Steve (engaged)

Annette (drunk), Me, Tevy and Jake

Anetter (drunker), Steve and a girl they all call Black Girl (she is dark)

Tevy's parents (looking worried)

Steve (reason for worry)

Trea (further worried)

Birthday cake cutting


Birthday cake eating

Some dirty old man

Yanks conversing

Me, Dara (long time taxi driver) and Jake.

Day out shopping in Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh is like a lot of other South East Asian cities: full of hot, smelly markets full of cheap, crapy items. The most (in)famous of the these is the Central Market (or Phsar Thmey in Khmer which translated back into English means ‘New Market’?????). It is an art deco 30s/40s building (again quoting guide book) that is stinking hot inside and just plain stinks on the outside. You can buy almost anything here as long as it is:

1. t-shirt
2. jeans
3. sneakers/runners
4. a photocopy of a copyrighted book
5. gold jewelry

I’ve been told there are other things in the market but every time I visit I wander around for a good hour in the heat and I seem to pass the same stall selling all of the above items. I quizzed some students on what their favorite place to shop was and without doubt Central Market is number one. They claim that this is the cheapest place to buy things and is stocked with almost everything you will want or need. I asked what do they typically buy there. They replied, ‘T-shirts, jeans, sneakers…’



The alternative to Central Market is the Sorya Market. It is a modern mall-like market with 5 floors. It lays claim to be the tallest building in Cambodia. When it opened about 5 years ago, it also claimed the record of the 1st case of vertigo in the country. Cambodian buildings are not meant to be any higher then the spire on the Royal Pagoda (a Buddhist church) at the King’s Palace, so you get few buildings here that are classified as sky-scrapers. Sorya has a lot of market-like stalls but has a flash electronics store that sells computers and plasma screens, expensive fashion stores and fast-food like chains (no McDonalds….have I mentioned that before). But if you ask anyone in Phnom Penh what they like most about Sorya it is 2 things:

1. the air-conditioning and;
2. the escalator

A/C is not rare here but the average local likes nothing better then on a hot day to wander around the building taking in the cool artificial breeze content in the fact that they aren’t paying for it. Many Cambodian courtships take place entirely in the confines of this place. The escalator is a little more special as it is the only one in the entire country. Security guards are placed at the start of each escalator to discourage people from riding too often. A student told me he went up and down the 5 levels on the ‘moving stairs’ for 3 hours when it first opened. Sorya also has a Western style supermarket where you can buy most things but is sadly lacking in Vegemite and Savory Shapes.

Residence in Phnom Penh

It has been a while since I've updated the blog, but I have been keeping photos to document my compelling life. The school where I teach has a week and half off for Christmas (which is in a Buddhist country) so hopefully I can add a little more then I have over the last few months.

Below are a couple photos of my flat/apartment in Phnom Penh. It is on Sihanounk Boulevard which is quite an impressive address (for Cambodia). It is about 100m from the Independence Monument and on the way to the Royal Palace. In the middle of the street is a long narrow park which the locals use in the early morning and late afternoon for exercise and hanging out. It gets quite busy and is the place of choice for local teenagers to practice their favorite hobby: driving their motorbike around in circles for hours on end.

I'm on the third floor and the 1st photo looks down on the alleyway leading onto the street. The house is owned by a Khmer family (there seems to about 50 of them living in the same size flat I’m in on the ground floor). Many years ago during the Pol Pot days, the population of Phnom Penh were all made to leave the city and forced into labour camps in the countryside. When "Brother Number One" was defeated and the people returned their was a mad scramble by the locals to reclaim the abandoned houses. As a result, many revenge killings and blood feuds have occurred between neighbors over disputed property. Needless to say, I ALWAYS pay the landlord on time.

You can't quite see it in the 2nd picture, of the park, but over the road is the North Korean embassy. Cambodia is one of the few countries in the world that are on good relations with the nutters from the North. The Prime Minister of North Korea visited a couple of weeks ago and almost all of the city was closed off to allow him to travel via motorcade around the city. Thousands of North Korean flags flew around the city and kids were made to line the streets to wave and welcome the mad-nuclear-scientist-loving politician. You can rest assured that most nights I keep a close eye on the embassy in case they start anything.



My flat is a one bedroom, fairly open place. It has a big L-shaped balcony which is good on humid nights and high enough so that the mosquitoes don’t invade. The furniture is provided by the landlord, so while it is not luxurious, it is comfortable. I have A/C in the bedroom but am learning to sleep without it. In fact, late November was quite cool at night (students at school were complaining about the cold and would wear jumpers and coats to class). The bathroom is a bit rough, but I do have hot water and a toilet that guarantees to flush at least 75% of the time. My cooking at home is about on a par with what I used to cook in Australia (0). The TV has cable, but of the 80 or so channels, 70 of them are either Cambodian, Thai, Chinese or another South East Asian country. I do get Channel Australia which is a mix of the ABC and commercial channels back home, so as long as I can watch Home'n'Away and the football I don't feel like I'm living in a cultural waste land.



Below me live a couple of other teachers from the same school, an American guy and the other is an English girl. Both have spent about the same other of time here as me, so there is always someone to go eating or drinking with (not so much talking as they both have weird accents that I'm sure the students have no idea what they are talking about).

Update on Phnom Penh

Post update to let you all know that I am alive and kicking. Working at a language centre on a university campus in Phnom Penh (http://www.puc.edu.kh/). No one understands me, but i think that was the same back home as well. The university gig is not as flash as it sounds. As long as you have a white face and can stand up at the same time they will hire you. A lot of the students pay for their classes, they are nice and polite most of the time (some students are pricks but I think you will get that anywhere). Work is very interesting, teaching young adults and high school kids English at a level none of them understand. So despite my inability to get them to comprehend anything, i get along with them.

The courses they do are pretty detailed so all you have to do is follow the course guides they provide you, not a real amount of your own time preparing is required. Not sure if I am any good, each lesson involves me talking for most of the 90 minutes and at the end I always get some student who comes up and says that he/she didn't understand a word. I have about 4 different levels or classes of fluency but some are very poor speakers and others are very good.

Have been very busy and adjusting to the new lifestyle. I started working before I finished the course so my days are pretty hectic. But since finishing I am working over 40 hours a day plus Saturdays (so much for having a holiday...). Not great money ($10US an hour, normal average 6 hours a day, 5 days a week) but more then enough to live here (Average prices = .55c US for a beer, $2-3US for a meal, $100US a month rent). Aim for 12 months (signed a contract) but no problem if I break it (people come and go a lot here).

I have found a place near the university with 2 others I have met here. A young girl from England and a young bloke from the USA. We found this townhouse that is really 2 separate apartments. I am living on the top floor in the one bedroom place which is quite nice (for Cambodia) for about $175.00 a month (about standard here, but you can get cheaper). Plenty of room if anyone ever finds their way here. Currently I've hired a motorbike/scooter that I use to get between classes and around the city. Everyone drives them fairly slowly so it isn't too dangerous. They don't indicate or use rear mirrors at all, you just have to be careful of whats in front of you. Rode through a rainstorm the other day and was riding through flooded streets up to my knees. I dance with death on a daily basis.

Have lost a bit of weight here as it is so hot and humid. Eating rice and chicken all the time also helps. Most exciting news is that KFC plan to open a branch soon in Phnom Penh (I plan to be first in line when it does).

Hope all are well. Hope to update the blog a bit more frequently.

One of me neighbours (the Royal Palace)

Small roundabout at the end of the street (Independence Monument).

Travel on Hold

Haven't updated a new post in a while but have been meaning to. Reason being I've elected to do a ESL (not mind reading, teaching English) course in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. I'm into the first 2 weeks of the 4 week program and though it is intense I am enjoying it. I was under the impression that i spoke, read and wrote English, but the last couple of weeks have shown up that i know very little about my mother tongue (anyone who has read any of this blog can attest to that).

I think I was getting bored with the whole 'total tourist/no working' idea I originally started out with plus the finances, though ok, most likely couldn't have withstood the constant assault my drinking habit was inflicting. Initially wanted to do the course (as there a number around the world) in Bangkok thinking that this would be the easiest place (i.e has a KFC) for me to live in while completing it. But the Thai authorities decided i was an unfit person and would not provide me with the necessary visa. Unless I returned home and applied via the correct channels along with a police check I was unlikely to succeed (their loss). The next best choice was between Hanoi or Phnom Penh. Both very interesting places and a lot to offer, so without preference I submitted my application to both and allowed them to compete for my services in much the same manner which a city would compete to host the Olympics.

Hanoi took 2 weeks to reply and didn't have a place till September. Phnom Penh accepted me within a week (me thinks they are desperate). Visa and working restrictions are almost non-existent here so no hassles. Am staying in a guest house run by the Southeast Asia Regional Service Center of Languagecorps (the school running the course) which is bearable (but much cleaner then my flat back in Elwood).

The course is geared so you hopefully remain in the country (30 hours of Khmer/Cambodian language won't do me much good on the beaches of Spain) and teach, though the certificate is recognised worldwide. Unsure at this date if I will remain for any period or if I will push on and use it elsewhere (the European summer is almost over). Always work for English teachers here and more a matter of where you want to work (city, country, school, adult education etc).

http://www.languagecorps.com/

No clue as to if I will enjoy or be any good at this teaching gig, but if I can control a group of mad women like I did at Computershare (old job) i'm sure this will be a piece of cake.

Cheers

Bad night all round

After the excitement (and hangover) of the Thailand game, Saturday's quarter final loss against Japan was very disappointing. Game was ruined by the soft Japanese player who went down from a Vince Grella challenge (or as the WWE calls a 'clothes line') for which the Socceroos were reduced to 10 men.


Grella sending off ....................................Naohiro Takahara -19 for Japan

Aussies did well to get to penalties given the humid conditions in sweaty ol' Hanoi (i sweated just walking to the toilet and back). Watched the game in a bar in Bangkok with a number of Japanese tourists who were quite polite but annoyingly loud at the end of the game. I now can dislike the Japanese for this as well as World War 2 and Tom Cruise's 'The Last Samurai'.


Major Japanese autocracies of the last 60 years

Am very sad

Thailand Vs Australia, Bangkok

Arrived in Bangkok for the Thailand versus Australia football game in the Asian Cup. Based camp near Khao Sahn (or however they choose to spell it) Road which is a haven for backpackers, drug addicts and tight arse travelers such as me. Had met the night before the game a couple of Sydney guys who were part of a larger group who had come to watch all the games in Bangkok. Had a couple of beers and agreed to meet them at the ground the next day. Woke up early (midday) and had usual meal of rice for breakfast (notice how expert I am with the chopsticks).


Druggie Street .............................................Spot the foreigner

Made my way to the football stadium by public transport. Bangkok has a very flash monorail train system called the Skytrain and by studying the map I found out where I needed to go. I had earlier gone to Siam Square which is the shopping district of the city and I discovered the National Stadium station was in fact only a stop away. But this is not the National Stadium that I assumed was the ground where the game was being played, I needed the Rajamangala National Stadium (a subtle difference, but it makes perfect sense to almost identically name the 2 major sporting venues in the city). I could use the Skytrain to get to one of the outer stations and then catch a bus to the ground. This was about 4 hours before the game started. Bangkok traffic is very congested and the local paper suggested that it would be a good idea to get to the ground early. This was wise advice because though I was told that the ground was around 40 minutes away the trip was a lot longer. The Skytrain portion of the trip was only about 10 minutes but the bus was a worrying 60 minutes. There is no organized official Asian Cup guides or directions you would expect to find at a major sporting event back home and the Thais have been criticized for their efforts of holding the event (couldn’t organize a piss up in a brewery). As I boarded the bus, that I wasn’t 100% convinced was going to get me to the ground, I was greeted by a bus conductor who told me that he has never had a "farang" (non-Thai or foreigner) on his bus before (not very comforting, but he laughed when he said it so I felt much better).


Skytrain (no use what so ever) .......................Moving death trap

After the ride through Bangkok traffic in the bus (that would make a handy gas chamber given the exhaust fumes) arrived at Rajamangala where the crowds were already gathering. This is Thailand’s version of the MCG complete with statues of sporting heroes (not sure of the below guys name but I think he was the national champion for shooting student demonstrators 3 years straight). Thais are mad English Premier League followers but have barely half-filled the seats at the earlier games the national team competed in. But as Thailand stood a good chance of progressing to the finals there was hope for a full house. Tickets ranged from about $4 to about $25 (bought a gold class $25/700baht ticket under the roof as I thought sitting with the taxi drivers who bought 100 baht tickets in the outer might get a little rough if the result went the wrong way for the locals).


Street vendors pounce.................................. Thakisn "Bang-Bang" Sirikirit

As I entered the grounds of the stadium I sighted small pockets of Aussie supporters and saw the group of Sydney lads who I had met the night before. They had been to the earlier games and knew that no alcohol was served in the stadium so were making up for it by sinking piss sold by street vendors. Thais think that all Australians are alcoholics and that all waking moments are spent consuming beer (this is, in fact, a correct assumption). With 3 hours to go till kick off the street vendors made a nice profit off the Aussie fans (mind you the Thais were getting pissed on straight whiskey). The Thailand football strip is red or blue but the vast majority of the crowed were wearing yellow shirts. "Were they supporting the Socceroos?" No, the Thais fanatically love their King and their wear yellow shirts to show their respect to him (this was a little confusing to pick who the to say "g'day mate" to). It became increasing unnerving as the crowd swelled with the noisy Thai buggers blowing their horns and chanting.


Australian Team warm up............................. Natives gathering

About an hour from kick off black clouds rolled in and it started to piss down Bangkok-style. Downed what I was drinking and headed through the police check point to get to our seats (these guys, in typical Thai fashion, are not very thorough and I could have smuggled in a tank for all the attention they were paying).


Upcoming shit storm.................................. Post 9/11 security

Entered the stadium where our seats were fortunately under the cover of the roof. Most of the fans sitting on the uncovered half were hiding under the stands to avoid the pelting rain. Photo below is a less then full shot of the outer of the Ragamangla and a shot of a slightly fuller me. Beer was having its effect and the nearest toilet was about four flights down (some of the water that started to fill up the ground may have been yellow). The Stadium seats about 40,000, comparable to the Telstra Dome in Melbourne for size and about the same as Victoria Park for facilities (current state). The boys from Sydney had smuggled some beer in despite the best efforts of the officers in brown which was only adding to my discomfort as I joined in the drinking to fit in (twisted my arm they did).


Not Full ..................................................................Full

The rain was still bucketing down ahead of kick off which, the drunk Sydney experts opinion was, beneficial to the Australian team who so far had played in hot and steamy conditions. No great expert myself I asked their thoughts on the Thailand team and what to expect. Little information was offered as most could not have told the difference between a Thai football player and Thai bar girl at this stage (guess who they would have been more familiar with??). The Thais had so far drawn with Iraq and beaten Oman and were headed for the finals if they could at least hold Australia to a draw. Hopes were high that the fast running, skillful Thais could outpace the physically bigger and experienced Australians (Note: all facts in this post that sound well researched were sourced from the Bangkok Post that I bought the next day. I had very little sober connection to the events that night).


Pissing down .................................Thai star striker - Dumbo

Kick-off and the game got underway. The crowd had settled in and the ground was pretty much packed. Thais are noisy buggers when they get together in a group and the chanting, horn blowing and drum beating didn't give up for most of the night. The rain gave way about 20 minutes into the game which made the contest and viewing much better. The Thais were very quick and seem to be intent on running the Aussies ragged. Compared to the bigger blokes in the team like Viduka and Emmerton, the Thais looked like kids (very fortunate that it wasn't an AFL or NRL game as the Thai would have been severely fucked).


Canary yellow dominated ...........................A more fitting opposition

Loud Thai Buggers

20 minutes in to the opening and Michael Beauchamp powered in and headed home a Luke Wilkshire free kick for the opening goal (Aussie, Aussie, Aussie! Oii, oi, oii!!). Shut the Thais up nicely and got the Aussie fans going. There were small pockets of Socceroo supporters around the ground and a large contingent of the Green and Gold Army opposite me in the outer. The illegal beer started to flow again in celebration of the goal which didn't really improve my condition (but what the heck).

Beauchamp 20' goal .......................................Carr 22' state of intoxication

From then on, it was backs to the wall for Australia (and swaying for me), as Thailand lifted the tempo and had Australia under enormous pressure. The Thai crowd started to lift again and really got into the game realising they only needed to score a goal to advance. Australia kept the Thais at bay, who were mainly forced to shoot from long range. The death blow came when 80 minutes in a (Timmy, Timmy, Timmy) Cahill cross to Viduka was chested and then blasted into the goal. Aussie fans were jubilant "Going to Hanoi, Going to Hanoi". The Sydney fans who conducted themselves with politeness and grace conveyed their pleasure at the goal and obvious coming victory by announcing to their fellow Thai fans "Screw you and your King". Cahill and Viduka repeated their success with another cross and header for a 3rd goal in the 84 minute.


Snow White and his favorite Dwarf.... Chivalrous Sydney fans with companions

On the 90th minute some bloke from Liverpool who claims to be Australian, unsighted most of the game as he sat on the bench to get away from the rain, slotted in the 4th and final goal and finished off the brave little Thais. The home fans were now streaming out of the stadium and some near me started to show the emotion of a loss and the unfortunate experience of having to sit near too many Australians with to much piss under their gut.


Kewell 90' minute ........................................Emotions get the better of local fan

Full time and a happy Australian team gave a lap of victory for the benefit of the fans on all side of the grounds. Despite the distance from the pitch you could smell the sweat the team had worked up (I think Bresicano went from a size M to an S with the amount of weight he lost perspiring). You could also tell from the pitch exactly how drunk I and others had gotten (Australian team doctor was sent up such was the concern).


Victory salute ............................................Hasselhoff level drunk at full time

Headed home in the dark happy at the result and effect of the drink. Dawned on me that I had no idea about getting home (returning by the way I came was impossible to find again). I started to sense a feeling of panic realising that here I was a drunk, obivious Austrlain fan wandering around in the dark amongest upset local fans (like General Custer at the last stand surrounded by the unsettled natives). Thankfully my newly aquired friends from Sydny had a bus going back to Khaosan and gave me a lift. Unfortunaly they had the bus stocked with after game beverages to celebrate the anticpaited victory. The ride to town was about an hour of drinking warm piss that had been sitting in a Thai bus all evening. Memories of the arrival are minimal but made it back to the hotel and awoke the next day to find I was alive. The last photo on my camera is the shot below (no idea where or when i was here, but here's the photo to prove i was there).


Fear in Bangkok ...............................................What-da-fuck???

Excellent day and a shocking hangover.

Fin.