Dropping by Angkor - Part 1

A little background; Angkor is the ancient Empire of the Khmer people, what Cambodians refer to themselves. Between roughly 8th century and 14th century this empire dominated most of the region. They were considered much advanced in culture and economy. But they dropped off the scene for some reason (something to do with the prick neighbors if you ask the locals) and all that is left is the collection of buildings that once was the centre of their world. The site is so important to the country they popped it on the middle of their flag.

Tour group consisting Cameron (Kiwi of Chinese descent thus the locals looked at him suspiciously in case he took off and raided something) and I started off in our transport which now was reduced to a four door sedan as the bus was overkill. The Angkor site is only about 10 minutes from the town of Siem Reap but the various monuments cover a large area. We started at Angkor Thom which is on a site over 9sqkm which has a huge moat and wall that encloses the area. Within the site are a number of other significant temples, palaces, libraries and terraces. The first couple of photos are taken at the main gate or entrance to Angkor Thom (if you look closely at the group (??) shot you can make out an elephant’s arse (some lards won’t even walk around the sites but jump out of their bus and straight onto the animal). Widget (tour guide) explains the figures are half gods (shown) and half demons that are having a tug-o-war with a huge seven headed naga (snake) that results in the spewing up of something with immortality in it. This tug-o-war takes place around a huge mountain and is a Hindu creation myth called the Churning of the Sea of Milk and is the first and last detailed explanation Widget told me that I bothered to remember. It only got hotter and sweatier from here and my brain was not accepting any new facts. Plus all the talk of spewing up and churning made me a little queasy.



The most amazing detail has gone into each building and hand craved statue which is hard to pick up in the photos. Came across this site, with the modern crane and construction site, that to me that looked like they were building a new temple. I asked our guide if this place is as old as he claims or are you just making up this ancient Khmer empire stuff? “No no! Just fixing her up” A lot of the sites are between 800-1,200 years old and though most are intact, a lot of them are starting to weather a little. There are a lot of projects undertaken by the (bastard) French and Chinese with the Cambodians to restore the sites or at least reinforce the foundations. The Australia Government also wanted to fund a similar project but pulled out when it was discovered that the Angkor Empire never built any pubs.

Still in Angkor Thom is the Leper King Terrace which is one of a number of similar terraces that make up the Royal Square. It has hundreds of carved figures which this photo is probably an example of one of the worst (Editors Note – employ professional photographer for next trip or at least a monkey that can use its thumb). This figure plus the statue in the wide shot (bottom right corner with its head decapitated) depicts an Angkor king that had leprosy (wow, how’d they come up with the name…). His face is disfigured, some demon/s plotted his down fall and he doesn’t have a pee-pee (not much was going for this poor prick). Learnt later that a number of these reliefs and statues are not the original as a lot have over the years been knocked off to be sold on the black market, mainly in Bangkok. Some of the damage is quite crude and a real shame (a real shame that I wasn’t going back to Bangkok so I could buy some).



Again, still in Angkor Thom (big, bloody place) is the Royal Palace and Phimeanakas which took from the 11th century to the 16th century to build and rebuild due to the fussy kings who kept changing the place (desperately needed an Angkor “Backyard Blitz” this lot). Guide tried to inform us that one king used to sleep every night in this palace with a 9-headed naga (snake) in the form of a woman or a woman in the form of a 9-headed naga. I’m still not certain which one he meant, but it was developing that each site had some x-rated story which Widget told along with fits of giggling (looking back now, I think everything he told he was a load of crap and the giggling was his reaction to me swallowing it all). This place isn’t as impressive as most of the other sites as it was made mainly of perishable materials that have since eroded.



Still in Angkor Thom (yes, still) is the Bayon. This temple is amazing (truly), something like 40 towers that ascend to create the peak with each tower having 4 carved faces pointing out to every direction. Inside is a complex maze of rooms which thousands of bas-reliefs of daily Angkor life, battles with the Cham (ancient Vietnamese knobs), legends of Hindu/Buddhism and naughty boy stories that our guide can never let pass without explanation. (If you asking at this point, “Gee your memory for details is good despite your earlier admission?” I will admit that I am referring to a guide book I purchased while there, otherwise I wouldn’t have a clue about the difference between an Angkor temple and a KFC drive-thru.)

This is an excellent example of a bas-relief from the Bayon, a dancing apsaras (celestial dancers for the gods and would also root the kings) on an outer gallery column. This is where the guide book has come in handy and has shown up our ‘imaginative’ guide Widget. I asked Widget what the holes around the figure were and he advised “Bullet holes. Civil war. Khmer Rouge. Bad people.” The book, contrary to Widget’s more dramatic explanation, states that the holes were there as a means to carry the stone block by the original builders and that in fact, during the terrible conflict that lasted 25 years up until 1993, all sides respected the Angkor sites for fear of pissing off the population (planning a civil suit against Widget for the $10 I paid him for the tour plus emotional damages).



Finally got out of Angkor Thom (big wasn’t it) and next came Ta Prohm which was a monastery but has slowly been destroyed by silk cotton trees that have grown amongst the buildings. Some of the trees are 500-800 years old and in some places have completely taking over structures. It has an eerie feeling to the place and is quite dark compared to the other sites due to the canopy of trees that cover the temple. (Again the guide book…) The Angkor sites were abandoned for centuries by the Khmers (not sure why, they just couldn’t be bothered) and it wasn’t till 1863 that a (bastard) Frenchman “discovered” the temples and aroused interest in them. Since then a lot of wok has gone into restoring them but this site was deliberately left in its original state to show the condition of the sites after being re-claimed. The most informative fact our guide provided was that a scene from “Lara Croft – Tomb Raider” with Angelie Jolie was filmed here (shame she didn’t adopt Widget).



Lunch and a drink was had while being harassed by the sellers from the local market. A lot of things with Angkor emblazoned on them. These hawkers are the most insistent of any of the countries I’ve visited but also quite funny. One little bloke (couldn’t be more then 8) tried to sell me postcards (which I already had bought elsewhere) for the entire duration of the lunch. He wasn’t really annoying and padded his pleas with questions about “where you from? do you have a car? do you know Angelie Jolie? why are you so fat?” I did buy his postcards in the end only if he could get some stamps as well. Gave him the money for the cards and additional stamps which he agreed to go fetch. Never saw him again (hope a land mine got him).

On to Srah Srang or Royal Bath is a huge (1km by 0.5km) man made lake or bath that was for the exclusive use of the king alone. He would take a swim watched by servants, where he could chose a number of small islands in the middle to take a kip on. You can’t have a dip in the water today either because the quality of the water is a hazard to your health (and anyway, is being used by my hotel to fill the complimentary drinking water bottles).

To be continued.

Vulnerable and susceptible people

The following is an article from a daily Melbourne newspaper -

The Age (theage.com.au)

Australians travel for terrorism, says Ruddock
Nick McKenzie and Sarah Smiles

June 30, 2007

AUSTRALIANS are continuing to travel overseas to engage in terrorist activity or training, often encouraged by radical Islamic figures who preach to "vulnerable and susceptible people," according to Attorney-General Philip Ruddock...

Full article:

http://www.theage.com.au/news/national/australians-travel-for-terrorism-ruddock/2007/06/29/1182624171423.html

As I am currently travelling I do not think that I could be described as vulnerable and susceptible and find Ruddock's comments offensive to tourists such as myself. I can only offer my experiences as proof that this is not the case.

When I booked my airplane ticket through Hezbollah Tours the kind girl who arranged the flight was very helpful but insistent that I also take part in a couple of "side tours" in Gaza and Kabul. Though it was somewhat difficult to understand her through her burka, I understood that the the tours involved some kind of adventure boot camp.

At the airport I was greeted by a representative of the tour company organising the tour. He was very easy to point out amongst the other drivers and taxi touts present. His name was Mahmoud Ahmadinejad Jr. and was very excited to see me.

Mahmoud introduced me to the rest of the tour group (that is me , third from the left in the green jacket). Most of other guys seemed better prepared then me as they had brought a lot of equipment for the tour. I didn't even have a balaclava so was given one by one of my new friends.

Can't wait to see how the rest of the trip turns out. Phillip Ruddock is a fool.

Getting to Siem Reap

This part of the trip involves me heading from Thailand to Siem Reap in Cambodia to visit the ancient Angkor temples. These posts are out of sequence with the actual trip due to my laziness in writing but all you need to know is I'm away travelling.

Left Thailand headed to Siem Reap, Cambodia. Took an organized tour bus that crossed the border at Poipet. The difference from Thailand to Cambodia is immediately noticeable once you cross the border. Immigration authorities on the Thai side were very thorough and ensured I had all the correct documentation. Once getting through you walk to the Cambodian side bag in hand and line up to be let in. For some reason (stupidity being the obvious) I didn’t get have the correct visa once I go to the Cambodian checkpoint. But no problem, an immigration police officer just hopped on a bike and rode back with my passport to the Thai side and got me one plus a nice tip for himself (my first effort at bribing local officials and not the last). Might be deeply suspicious, but I think the cops here earn a nice quid from confused tourists. Anyway, once I had the correct paperwork, passed almost casually through; no bag checks, no metal detectors, no dog sniffing, nothing (Cambodians think that if the amount of drugs or guns you have can fit into a suitcase it can’t be that many too bother about).



Once you cross over the first thing you come across are about 10 casinos. Anyone old enough to remember Melbourne before the pokies or Crown were allowed to operate will remember old age pensioners who used to take day trips to Albury in NSW so that they could lose money at the RSL pokies. The Cambodians use this same theory, as gambling is illegal in Thailand but they are mad punters. So they have built casinos all along the border that Thais can come and lose their hard earned. In fact most casinos are built before the Cambodian immigration control so that Thais don’t have to bother getting there passports stamped. Had lunch at one called the “Crowne” which upon entering informed me that I couldn’t take photos, wear thongs, bring in pets or guns (just like the Melbourne Crown Casino).

After lunch my tour group (which only consisted of me and one other, low season) were handed over to a local Cambodian tour guide who immediately apologised for the tour despite it not having started. Cambodians must think that their country is so poor that anyone visiting it will be offended once they have crossed the border (that would be the Yanks). Our guide did have a point though, from here we started the journey to Siem Reap about 2 ½ hours from the border on the porridge road (see earlier post). This road is just a dirt road that becomes a nightmare during the (current) raining season, all sludge and pot holes. Hoped to sneak in a sleep on the way, but rather then being sleep deprived by the end of the drive I was required to be placed into traction. The photo below is about halfway at a village and is quite a good section of the road. The driver actually decided to get a car wash here (money would have been better spent on massage therapy).



Got to Siem Reap and was dropped off at the Angkor Hotel which was by far the best hotel I have stayed in on the trip. By Cambodian standards it is 5-star which means you can keep in your room your gun/grenades rather then checking them with security. Nice room, comfortable bed, cable TV (with the Australia Network channel, watched the footy!! Yeah!!) and huge pool. Later I was to discover that I could have chosen a lesser hotel and thus saved a bit of money but the Thai travel agent decided to relieve me of this burden of choice (bless her). Can’t complain as the bed was very much appreciated after the road trip. The hotel was so flash that they had a little kid playing a traditional instrument like a xylophone in the lobby. I was somewhat disturbed that the same kid was playing it when I checked in, came down for dinner and again the next morning (but the little trooper smiled all the same). Out of concern asked her if she went to school and she tried to answer but stuffed up the song she was playing (believe management beat her later, this photo was 'googled' from the hotel website to give the reader an idea of the instrument and to help Amnesty International locate the girl).



Siem Reap according to the guide (whose name was Widget (this is not funny, that was his name)) has about million people and is the 2nd biggest city after the capital Phnom Penh. Pretty much all of its growth is built out of the tourist business stemming from the Angkor temples. It is a pretty town built on the Siem Reap River with a lot of old French architecture, the King’s Royal Villa (his version of a caravan site at Rosebud) with a lot of new development of tourist hotels/restaurants/bars. Can hire a bicycle to ride around the town and to the temples (ha, as if that was going to happen). Stopped at the Widows market were I was sadly informed that I couldn’t pick up a cheap ex-wife but that widows make up most of the stall holders. Due to Cambodia’s sad and violent history (over a million people were killed when the Khmer Rouge ran the country and there have been continuing conflicts and coups ever since) the population’s average age dropped to around 20 years of age. There hardly seems to be a local who doesn’t have a father, mother or relative who hasn’t met some grisly ending. I felt somewhat guilty haggling with a cheerful widow who had also lost a leg from a land mine over a t-shirt purchase but I still beat her down to US$2 a piece. Thought I spied a familiar sight, a McDonald's store but it is a fake cashing in on the fact none exists here. The other photo below is a local mum dropping the kids off at soccer practice near the market.



First night was taken to a Cambodian version of theatre restaurant for dinner. Smorgasbord spread which included Cambodian rice, Cambodian noodles, Cambodian meat skewers (which don’t seem a lot different to Thai rice, Thai noodles and Thai meat skewers). Included a show of traditional Cambodian (or Khmer) dancing, again a lot like Thai which I ignorantly suggested to our guide. Widget proceeded to advise me of the superiority of Khmer dancing, the subtle movement of the body, the more graceful use of hands and narrative of everyday Khmer people rather then Thai legends. All this talk of culture, plus the bus trip and a gutful of food, made me fall asleep into my bowl of Tom Yum (sorry, Cambodian prawn soup). Have included an artist's digital impression of what I will look like aged 50 if I keep eating at this rate. Next day we had an early start so the group (me and the other bloke Cameron) decided for an early night.



Up next morning earlier then I normally would have, in fact the sun is well and truly up by 5.00am. Cambodians traditionally get up at this time and perform a lot of tasks before heading off to work or school (this place is not for me). Off to the Angkor temples. To be continued.

Denial No.2 and Blog Feedback

I wish to advise that the timing of my extended overseas trip and the replacement of the Yellow Wiggle is purely a coincidence. We are not the same person and clearly have taken different "lifestyle" choices. I wish Sam Moran the best of luck in his new role and hope he continues the fine tradition of skivvy-wearing, hand-wagging, poncing-about by 30-something year old males with an unusually large interest in pre-school children.


Thank you to all of you that commented on the blog. From your emails I have derived that most of you think that I am:

1. Nerdish
2. Sad/disturbed
3. Racially intolerant
4. Shy of photographs

Not going to argue the first 3 points, but I promise to try and include more photos of myself in any future effort. In fact, am thinking of making this a pay per view website and start including more graphic material if you are that interested in viewing me.

Day in Vientiane - Part 2

Saga continues...

Lao National Museum where I was not allowed to take photos inside in case I uncovered any state security secrets. These include mannequins dressed in tribal army uniforms and a whole section of photos of Laotian politicians posing in front of buildings (much like this building). Enquired upon leaving if this was a tourist attraction and was assured it was ("We very much like tourists"). There is a lot of space dedicated to the various conflicts that have occurred in the last 50 years; fighting the French for independence, the Communists fighting the former ruling Royal Lao Government, fighting the South Vietnamese when Lao got dragged in to the war with the North, being heavily bombed by the US in the same war (the next day, I decided not to question the waiter about the change he gave me at breakfast for fear that an armed struggle would have broken out). Across the road is the Lao National Culture Hall, currently unused. They plan to use it hopefully in 5-10 years once State Party scientists invent some culture.

Stopped for a drink on Rue 23 Singa (which is funny, because ‘Singha’ is a Thai beer sold locally as well. So the Australian translation of the street name would be “Almost a Slab of VB Road”. Pissed myself laughing at the time. Maybe it was the heat and humidity or my lack of a traveling companion that I found my own jokes so funny. An insight into the current state of my mind. This bracket comment has gone on too long). I asked for a Coke and the lady running the joint brought me 2 cans and a glass. I had read somewhere that Laos consider this a tradition. I found out the tradition is to bring 2 glasses to encourage the drinker to engage in conversation with someone (typically the bar/café owner). This woman just thought I was a fat, greedy bastard. I asked if I could take her photo as part of my record of the trip to Vientiane without informing her that I was taking the piss. She was chuffed.

These 2 cans cost me 12,000 kip (local currency) which is about $A1.50. This curious currency has the added bonus of having two different amounts on the notes to confuse unsuspecting tourists. The 10,000 kip note also has 90,000 printed on it (?!?!? (how sad that I actually have a photo of the note )). I’m told this is Laotian lettering and not an attempt to swindle foreigners. I think they all should learn to count in English and accept the superiority of our culture so that I’m not inconvenienced any further.

When I originally exchanged some money (about $200) I was provided with a wad of cash about the size of a loaf of bread. Lao traders often greet you with “Is that some loose change in your pocket or are you just glad to see me? Heh-ha.” Buying stuff does your head in because buying a couple of souvenirs or a meal seems to be more like buying a house or car. Below is at the Morning Market (and guess what, there is a Night Market which involves these buggers packing up and moving the same shit to another site) which is as hot and humid as a camel’s you-know-what. South East Asian countries seem to be under the impression that the Western world is desperately short of t-shirts. Every second stall is nothing but t-shirts with sellers imploring you to buy at least 10 at a time (which I did) and thereafter insisting that I buy another 10 (“How much u pay? Ahh, u pays too much. Buy more from me. Don’t want children in Austria go without fake ‘Nike’ polo, do you?)



Below is the Laotian National Assembly, a parliament full of Commies that nobody gets to vote for, which is officially not a tourist attraction. I learnt this when I approached the building and the army officer (in the guard box next to the tree) told me to piss off. I politely asked if I could at least take a photo and was told much forcibly the Laotian version of ‘sling your hook mate!’ Somewhat frustrated by my attempts to document my trip, I complied with the Lao Red Army storm trooper and covertly walked away. Just before my cheap digital camera zoom failed to be of any use, I ‘James Bond-like’ took a picture of the building and the ‘vitally important to national security and well being’ flag pole (Western Imperialist 1 – Lao Security 0).



The main strip of nightlife in bustling "Viva Las Vientiane" (granted that this photo was taken (rather poorly) on a Monday night). A lot of the cafes, bars and restaurants are along the Mekong River. Found a Lao-French restaurant (more bread) for dinner and ordered a typical Lao dish of steak and chips (a person can only eat rice for so long). Apart from the temple mentioned earlier, Laos are extremely proud of their local brew named, with typically Laotian ingenuity, Beerlao. It is advertised on billboards everywhere and a trip to Lao isn’t complete without purchasing a Beerlao t-shirt. Is actually quite good and the consumption of this bottle(s) was the official highlight of the trip (despite my inability to pour it). Staff at the restaurant were bemused why some sad prick sitting by himself was taking photos of his beverage (clearly they hadn’t visited all of Vientiane’s tourist sites).

Rounded the night off with a banana and condensed milk pancake prepared by a street vendor. After I finished it off I retired to my hotel room where I promptly commenced to squeeze out said pancake over a 3 hour stint on the porcelain throne (them bananas looked a little too green).

This completed my first full day of Laos. Apologies to any one who took offence, but Vientiane does need a Vitamin B shot before I spend any more time here. Being boring isn't too bad, I am always amazed why tourists come to Melbourne because beyond the penguins I've never seen the attraction to outsiders. Vientiane maybe dull but I'm sure it is a very livable city (if comforts like squatting toilets are your thing). Pushing on to Luang Prabang north of the capital (took me an hour to make the local travel agent understand where I was talking about) which everyone has told me is the place where all the tourists go, Vientiane is just a stopping off point to get there (we will see).

Cheers

Day in Vientiane - Part 1

I have been looking at my photo collection of the trip so far and must admit it is looking fairly thin. Decided that I will make more of an effort to record what I have seen for future prosperity. Unfortunately I have decided to commence this on my first few days in Laos, in particular the capital Vientiane. I know that dosen’t sound very nice (apologies to any Laotians who may read this) but Vientiane is very dull, the Adelaide of Asia. Maybe I’ve reached my capacity for enjoying South East Asia or appreciating the culture diversity of the region but it was very hard to ‘get into’ this place. If God was interviewed by a woman’s magazine like Cosmo or Cleo and was asked “if you were stranded on a desert island and could only pick 5 capital cities to take with you?” you can be certain that Vientiane (“Jewel of the Mekong”) would not be in the Almighty’s backpack.

Confused on if the place is called Lao or Laos as you seem to get a mixture of both. I think because of the poor economy someone decided to sell off the “s” to save some dough. Lao is a landlocked country between Thailand, Vietnam and some other countries (buy a Lonely Plant book if you are unsatisfied with my lack of details). They are a Communist run country (Lao Peoples Democratic Republic) that have realised communism doesn’t work and are trying to cash in on the tourist buck in the last decade or so. Prior to coming I read much about undiscovered secrets and unspoiled wonders of Lao due to the government preventing most foreigners from visiting the country. Well after getting here I think them politicians knew what they were doing keeping it a secret (bring back centralized government).

I traveled from Phnom Penh, Cambodia to Vientiane by back tracking into Thailand as the Cambodians said going directing would take days as the road there isn’t really a road and plus even the Cambodians don’t bother going to Lao (there ain’t a lot of love between these bordering neighbors). I went by bus because I’m tight, so after a day of bum-numbing torture (that doesn’t sound right) I crossed from Thailand to Lao via the Thailand-Lao-Australia Friendship Bridge over the Mekong River. There is a picture of Paul Keating opening the bridge with some dodgy looking Laos. Lao is a third world country and very poor, but it is a nation of tight-arses. Everything seems to be built or funded by another country (they are like the mate who only drinks with you as long as you shout). French, Japanese, Chinese, American, everyone seems to be having a go (they asked me if I wanted to fund a new hospital, told them to try the Kiwis at the back of the bus).

Resided at the Hotel Lao in the heart of Vientiane (I think it is a law here that the word "Lao" must in appear in the name of everything). Very similar hotel to others in the region; you get couple of free bottles of drinking water because the tap water is undrinkable, the double bed mattress is made of solid timber and is comprised of two singles (I woke up once after splitting the two mattresses and falling through) and the cable TV has a wide variety of choice (Lao, Thai, Vietnamese soaps and Fox News Channel). Typical Lao street outside with street vendors selling lots of cooked that is indigestible to the Western stomach (it was at this point I discovered that no McDonalds or KFC exist in this country, panic attack followed).

I decided to walk around and see the sights despite the heat and humidity (a Lao t-shirt to the first person that guesses correctly how long the walking lasted before I quit and started using taxis). First stop on my tourist trek was the Presidential Palace on the banks of the Mekong River. Found it curious that a country that is officially Communist has such an elaborate residence for the head of state. Not sure if that is the President himself in the photo on his way to temple. Being on the Mekong is meant to be akin to beach front property here, but it is a little dry at the moment. Standing in the same spot I tried to take a photo of the mighty river. As you can see it was a little hard to spot (oh... say 4 km away).



Near the ‘Presidents Pad’ are a lot of embassies, below is the French embassy (I’m sure you are getting the picture that Vientiane is pretty light on for tourist highlights). The French stand out in Laos because there is not a nation the Laos hate more then France (apart from Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, Burma, China, both Koreas and America). The French were the colonial rulers of Laos for the first 50 years of the 20th century, as they were of Vietnam and Cambodia. The French taxed them heavily, forced them into slave-like labour and violently quashed most attempts to seek independence. But at least they taught them to bake bread really well!! My lunch was a pork roll purchased from a street vendor. The bread was a freshly baked French-stick, beautiful crust. Bread in most other Asian countries I’ve eaten is crap (the main ingredients of bread in Thailand seems to be sugar and preservatives – tastes sickly sweet and the ‘use-by’ tag is dated in years rather then days). I do feel sad for the Laos’ history and what they had to suffer at the hands of their colonial masters, but at least I got a decent feed.



Generally the locals are very polite, softly spoken and friendly (this is called a stereotype) but Laos do seem to dislike a lot of people, mainly bordering neighbors. In the short time I’ve been here I’ve listened to a number of reasons why from hotel staff, bar/café staff and anyone who is prepared to offer me their opinion. In brief and in no particular order:

Thailand – because they are arrogant and (in comparison) a lot richer; Thais think Lao should be a part of Thailand as they used to rule it.

Vietnam – officially they are meant to be strong allies, but unofficially they push Lao around and take all the good jobs locally.

Cambodia – because they are gangsters/hillbillies and have dark skin (a real no-no in these parts) Lao official motto – “At least we’re not Cambodian”.

Burma – because they are just weird; Lao who itself only recently opened their borders think Burmese are paranoid space-cadets.

China – because everyone else does, so why not Lao.

Most other foreigners to Laotians seem ok apart from the French (see above), Koreans are rude and Americans are loud. Australians are fine, much preferred over our European neighbors the Germans (we build the buggers a bridge and they don’t have the decency to look us up on a map).

Victory Gate of Vientiane (Patuxay), middle of a big round-about on the main street of the capital. Even by the locals own admission the attraction is pretty crap. It really does look like someone decided to take a big cement crap. The gardens are quite nice but it is a shame that it is built in between lanes of a major road (think Botanical Gardens on the medium strip of Citylink).

Never found out what ’victory’ it was meant to celebrate (victory over the requirement for drinkable water??) Climbed to the top where you can get a good view of the city (shame it wasn't some other city). There are about 3 flights of stairs to the top and each floor is crammed with stalls selling souvenirs. One sold a book of photos of the Victory Gate, needless to say, my money was safe from them.

The ‘That Luang’ Buddhist temple (how long is it? its "That Luang"), pride of Laos and a national symbol. I might be a little jaded as I’ve seen, at last count, 362 Buddhist temples, pagodas, stupas, monasteries or religious sites where Buddha him/herself may or may not have had a crap 1,000 years ago and they are all starting to blur a little.

The most interesting thing I found out about this one was that about a hundred years ago a Chinese army of bandits raided the capital, destroyed the temple, stripping the gold leaf and pissed off back to China. Laos are horrified by this vandalism and still harbor resentment towards the Chinese for the act. But I think, you build a dirty great big building, cover it in gold, tell everyone that it’s the best bit of real estate you’ve got and your surprised that some Chins came and pinched it?!?! (Those of you reading this from Frankston, don’t bother making the trip as real gold is no longer used). Can’t figure out why they have a statue of John Wayne out the front. Maybe they saw him in the movie “Green Berets” and liked seeing him kill all them Viet-Cong.

To be continued - Part 2